Whew.

8/12/13 21:35
britgeekgrrl: (dorrie sewing.)
Copied out my basic princess sloper, added ease, copied some details from the Vogue pattern and ran up a muslin - which doesn't sound like much four hours' work, but there you go.

Tried on the muslin, decided that I'd added too much ease in the back, as I rather suspected I would. Also decided to hell with the double-breasted closure, I was going to do a center-front opening with a faux double-breasted look, as I rather suspect Tennant's coat is. Ever see him wear it closed? Exactly. Besides, I need to save yardage. I'm still not sure I'll have enough as it is...

Tweaked seams to take in the too-much ease in back - managing to get the cut a bit closer to the rather dramatic lines of the Vogue pattern. Hemmed and hawed about doing the same in front but, really, the fit there is good. I had to gentle the side-front curve as it was a little too roomy, even for my bust, but that only shaved off an eighth of an inch, or so.

Took a tiny bit in at the armscye in the back, as it was too big for the sleeve provided with the Vogue pattern and, honestly, that was a bit big, already (the perils of a plus-sized pattern when one is, um, plus sized in an inconsistent manner). Tapered sleeve, slightly - probably a drafting no-no, but I like it better - and knocked a good three inches off the length. Along with short little legs, I have short little arms, it seems.

Spent FAR too much time redrawing the line for the opening of the coat. Going from the overlapped front of a double-breast opening to something more like a regular overcoat changed the angle of the neckline, which, in turn requires a change to the lapels (which were by now FAR too wide) and, oy, three rounds of back-and-forth between checking seamlines and tweaking the width of the collar and lapels...

But! I think I've got it right. I won't really know until I take apart the muslin and re-sew it, but that won't be too aggravating - just trimming off bits here and there.

As I say, not much for about six hours' work - total - but I'm actually very pleased with it. I have high hopes for the next muslin.

The remainder of my evening shall be spent with the freshly baked batch of cookies my Swain was kind enough to make before dinner time and The Fellowship of the Ring on the DVD player.
britgeekgrrl: (jm femmy 10)
As I've told you ad infinitum already, I picked up Vogue 8346 - below - with the intention of making it over into a new coat for Femmy!10. The short bolero thing just didn't work with the long skirt of the new version of the costume, you see.

It finally seeped into my brain that I hadn't given any thought to the *back* of the coat. Oops!

Obviously, there are differences, seam-line-wise between this:

Vogue 8346
(click to embiggen)

and this:

Abbyshot Tenth Doctor Coat
(ditto)

However, I absolutely do not have the yardage* to slavishly copy how the original item is cut (caveat, the above is actually Abbyshot's replica, but it's a good-enough reference photo), so I'm sticking with the princess seam into the armhole in back, as per the Vogue pattern.

But I would like to re-create that inverted box pleat at CB (I'm rather proud of the fact that I managed to do so on a freakin' bolero jacket) and I'm giving thought to vent in back, too, although I probably shouldn't - full-cut twirly-butt coats don't need a vent for movement, because of that aforementioned fullness.

Anyways. Glad I looked at things, as I'm on the verge of tracing out the test pattern (just doing the top half of the coat - no need to burn up yards and yards of muslin) and I would have kicked myself if I'd missed the CB detail.

I'm reasonably sure that the lapels are going to be wider than I am**, when all is said and done, but for this first draft, I'll copy the pattern bits as closely as I can (as I've NO experience in figuring out such things, myself) and see how it looks. THEN I'll adjust. The Idris bodice experiment has taught me that I can't introduce too many changes at once, as I'm just not skilled enough at pattern manipulation to handle that. That said, I'm putting the pleat in for this draft, as that nicely fixes the problem I was having re: ease in the back vs. desire to keep the coat as closely fitted as possible, despite it being an overcoat, etc, etc.

*I have five yards, so it's going to be a squeeze, however I - ahem - cut it.

**I'm not kidding. My shoulders are 3.5" wide. The lapels, once sewn, are 3.5" wide. It all depends where the roll-line falls, methinks.

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